Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Belle Voce Christmas Concert


One of my joys these past couple months as been participating in the Belle Voce Community Choir. While I sang in choirs and did music camps all through middle school and high school, I stopped performing in college. I was so excited to discover Belle Voce here in Phnom Penh and to start singing again. Last Sunday, we had our Christmas Concert, to a packed house of 700 people, and on Tuesday we performed at a Christmas Party at the residency of the British Ambassador. We have one last performance this season that I'm looking forward to. Belle Voce has not only been a chance for me to get back into music and to try to regain some of the skill I lost over the past few years, but also an opportunity to meet new people from all over the world and to make new friends.

The whole concert is available on youtube but I've attached our performance of The Hallelujah Chorus from Handel's Messiah (until about 4:30), Glory Glory (starting at about 8:10), and He's Got the Whole World (starting at about 12:40). In case you can't find me, I'm the second from the left in the first row- just look for the pink hair.


Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Koh Kong and Bangkok

MCC Cambodia Program Staff (and families). Photo courtesy of Binu Rai.

The other night, I was on the phone with one of my friends. I was telling her about all the things I've done in the past couple weeks.
She sighed dramatically, "Your life is just amazing isn't it." Of course, I denied it. "Oh come on, admit it. Your life is amazing."
"Well, I mean these past two weeks have been, but they aren't representative of my day-to-day life," I conceded.
"Yeah, but your life includes opportunities to do these awesome things. Just admit it. You get to do cool things."

While, I try to downplay it most the time, she has a point. I've been given amazing opportunities: to live abroad, to travel, to meet people and see things that I never would have otherwise. These past two weeks have been great reminders of all the things I have to be thankful for.

Standing near the top of the Tatai Waterfall in Koh Kong 
The week of November 19th, I went with MCC Cambodia on retreat to Koh Kong Province. The retreat was an opportunity to get out of Phnom Penh, to a part of the country I've never been to, and to spend time with the rest of the MCC Cambodia team. While we were there we took trips to Boeng Kayak Mangrove Forest in Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary and to the Tatai Waterfall. We also spent time in a mini-workshop, discussing cross-cultural communication and relationships, including strategies, when it's difficult, and how we can work bridge cultural gaps.

View of the Royal Palace from the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok
The MCC team returned to Phnom Penh on the evening of the 22nd, I had one day in the city, and then boarded a plane to Bangkok, Thailand bright and early on the 24th for a vacation. I've done solo trips before, but this was my first solo international vacation. I decided that I wanted to stay in one place, so I just hung out in Bangkok for the week. I slept in and stayed out late, visited the National Museum, spent time in some of the parks in the city, visited a huge mall and watched a movie, did a canal tour, and, spent a lot of time relaxing and people watching. Bangkok is a huge city, and very developed, in comparison to Phnom Penh. It was amazing to see how different two capital cities in bordering countries can be so different. While I enjoyed my time, if/when I go back to Thailand, I think I'll hang out at the beach instead of Bangkok.

Sometimes, I have to admit to myself that my life is pretty amazing. And that I'm thankful and grateful for all of the opportunities I've been given, even if I don't always appreciate them for the gifts that they are.

Bangkok, Thailand



Thursday, November 12, 2015

New Returnees

After nearly a year with no returnees deported from the USA to Cambodia, there has been a recent tide of new returnees. More than 15 people have been sent to Cambodia in the past month, with more scheduled to arrive before the end of the year. For many, this transition to a country they barely know but of which they are citizens is difficult.

Here is more about one of these returnees stories, written by one of the MCC Cambodia SALTers: A Fight for Survival.

Monday, November 9, 2015

Conflict Management Workshops

Conflict Management Training participants
A few weeks ago, I was invited to go to with Women Peacemakers to Seda Commune, Camber District, Tboung Khmum Province to assist with the Conflict Management Training, one of the follow ups to the Community Nonviolence Workshops I attended in March. And by assist I mean, I observed the training and took pictures, while my amazing co-workers lead the sessions in Khmer and explained parts of the training to me in English.

Road to the school
We headed out off Phnom Penh, because the workshops were held from Saturday through Tuesday, and WPM did follow up interviews on Wednesday and Thursday. I returned to Phnom Penh on Monday though, because of work with my other organizations.

The training was held at a school building located in the middle of a field. Many of the training participants had met the WPM staff members on earlier trips, so I was the only person in need of introduction. The director excited explained that my name is Hannah, that I'm from America, and that I work with WPM part time. She then remembered that I can introduce myself in Khmer, so she had me repeat the information myself. I added that I have lived in Cambodia for one year. During the workshop, several of the participants made a point to come over and speak to me. One woman thanked me for working in Cambodia, one old man brought me a fruit and asked me if we have it in America, and one of the commune leaders told me that I was doing a good job respecting Khmer culture by wearing the traditional sampot skirt- but that I should wear long sleeves next time to really be a Cambodian lady.

Wearing my sampot during the workshop
The WPM Director and two of the staff members jointly lead the trainings. They taught the group about self-reflection, perspectives, stereotypes, prejudice, conflict, alternatives to violence, and many other things that I'm sure I was unable to understand with my limited Khmer. While much of Cambodian education focuses on rote learning, WPM makes a point of having their trainings be participatory. The students were encouraged to speak, hold group discussions, do small group work, play games, and use their creativity.






Sunday, October 18, 2015

Pchum Ben trip to Kep

Hiking in Kep National Park
Boat to Rabbit Island
Cambodia has several long, important holidays. The longest of those is Pchum Ben, translation "Ancestor's Day". Pchum Ben is a 15 day religious festival over which Cambodians pay their respects to their deceased relatives of several generations (up to 7 according to wikipedia). Cambodians return to their homelands to give food and monetary offerings to their ancestors and to Buddhist monks. While the holiday is 15 days long, the government traditionally gives the last three days off as a government holiday.  This year though, because the three days for Pchum Ben fell during the same week as the Commemoration Day of the King's Father (also a government holiday), the government announced about two weeks before that the entire week would be a holiday (why work just one day in a week?).

Bungalow in Kep
With all the time off, two of the other MCC Service Workers (Audrey and Vince) and I decided to get out of Phnom Penh and head over to Kep, a little town about 94 miles south-east of Phnom Penh, near the Vietnam border, on the Gulf of Thailand (which should take about three hours to get to on a bus, but because of traffic our bus took 6.5 hours.). It's a quiet little town, catering to mostly Cambodian tourists. Audrey and I shared a little wooden bungalow at the base of the mountain, facing out over the Gulf. It was so cool at night in Kep that we were perfectly content with just a fan.

My monkey friend Kiri
For all that we thought this trip was going to be quiet we had a lot of adventures! We made friends with a cow who then tried to head butt Vince, went hiking in the Kep National Park (on the aforementioned mountain), befriended a tame, orphaned monkey- who fell off my lap, scared herself, and tried to bite me for it, and then proceeded to steal and eat one of Audrey's earrings, went to a butterfly farm, explored old, decrepit buildings from Kep's hay-day in the '60's, took a boat out to Rabbit Island and hung out on the beach there, visited an organic Kampot Pepper farm, and haggled with shop keepers for crab at the Crab Market. And we ate lots, and lots of good food, including an all you can eat breakfast buffet, tacos, and fresh caught and steamed crab with black pepper sauce.
Relaxing on Rabbit Island

We returned to Phnom Penh on Wednesday, and I spent the rest to the week relaxing in city and doing very little of anything.


Cooking fresh crab at the Crab Market





Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Life in the Tropics

Things they don't tell you about living in the tropics

(or if they do tell you, you don't believe them)

Gulf of Thailand in Sihanoukville
  • You will sweat, 95% of the time. Not nice, lady like perspiration, oh no, full on pouring sweat. Walking down the stairs? Sweat! Riding your bike to the market? Sweat! Sitting in the office? Sweat! And because the air is so humid it won't evaporate off your skin like it's supposed to, so it won't make you any cooler.
  • The sweating will make you want to shower constantly. You will understand why the words for "beautiful" and "clean" are the same in several languages.
  • The 5% of the time when you're not sweating? You will be freezing cold. Not because it's actually cold, oh no, it's only around 75F, if it's even that cold, but because your body will be so confused as to why you are not hot enough to sweat anymore.
  • Ants are everywhere. Mini ants, red ants, normal ants- you name 'em, they're around. Think it's safe to leave an empty mug on the table while you finish reading? By the time you pick up the mug again there will be ants.
  • It will be both humid and dusty. These things seem like they don't go together, but it is true. You will constantly be sweeping the dust off your floor or coughing from the dust when riding on a moto.
  • You will probably want to wear a surgical mask while riding a moto, in order to deal with the
    Rain over the river in Phnom Penh
    previously mentioned dust. They do wonders, even if they make it difficult to breath.
  • You'll see more lizards than you've ever seen before. They will be around, all the time. They'll come into your house, and climb on walls, and just kind of chill. Sometimes they will eat stray grains of rice that are laying around.
  • The aforementioned lizards also make noises, loud ones if they're big enough. The first time I heard one I thought it was a bird, then some one showed me the lizard hanging out on the back of the cabinet and I was shocked.
  • When it rains it pours. Light drizzle is not a thing. You will need to carry a raincoat with you at all times during rainy season, just in case.
  • When it rains it floods the streets. So, even though you are wearing a raincoat you will still be
    Pool in Phnom Penh
    soaked to the bone. Also, you will have to drive through the flooding, which may or may not flood the engine on your moto.
  • Most building have tin roofs, this means that when it's hot it will be especially hot inside. And when it rains, it will be loud enough to make you want to put a pillow over your head to muffle the noise.
  • While there is an abundance of tropical fruits (papya, mango, banana, pineapple, dragon fruit, durren, mango stem, milk fruit...) sometime you will miss the fruits and berries you grew up with. Buying them will cost you an arm and a leg though.
  • While you think tropics equal all around pool season, it will either be so hot that any time spent not swimming will need to be spent in the shade to avoid instant sunburn and sweat, or it will be just chilly enough that you can't fathom going into the water.

Monday, September 21, 2015

Khmer Rouge Trials

The security guard handed me back my purse, and the next guard ushered me into the auditorium. I was handed a pair of headphones and a handset with which to listen to the simultaneous translation. My eyes swept over the room, from the hundreds of empty seats to the glass wall separating us from the courtroom. As I took a seat in the middle of the room, my companions from Youth for Peace (YFP) and Peace Institute of Cambodia (PIC) joined me, with their own headsets. I studied the courtroom before us, it almost felt like stage. On the opposite wall there were the emblems of the United Nations and the Kingdom of Cambodia, framing the official emblem for the Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC). In front of that, facing us, were two rows of seats with computer screens. Facing these, close to the glass wall, were two tables, an elderly man was seated at the one on the left, while the one to the right was empty. There were rows of seats to the left and right, facing towards the center, filled with men and women in suits and robes, some black, some purple. Seated against the wall on the left was a group of men and women, the women in this group all wore hijabs. After a few minutes, everyone in the court room rose, as did everyone in the auditorium with me, while the judges entered the room and took their seats. The head judge reminded us why we were there: to hear a witness for the prosecution for the allegations of genocide against the Muslim Cham people during the Khmer Rouge Regime against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan.
Stupa at the Killing Fields in Choeung Ek.

While the Khmer Rouge Regime, officially known as the Democratic Kampuchea, officially held power from April 17th, 1975 to January 7th, 1979, political and military turmoil in Cambodia has prevented those responsible for the atrocities committed by the regime to be brought to justice. The ECCC was launched as a hybrid national and international tribunal in 2006, after almost ten years of planning and negotiations between the Cambodian government and the United Nations. The courts were established to try "the senior leaders of the Democratic Kampuchea... who are alleged to have planned crimes or given orders to commit crimes, as well as those alleged to be most responsible for committing serious crimes.”1 36 years have passed since the Khmer Rouge was toppled, and many of the former leaders are elderly or have died, thus it was decided that only people who are still alive can be tried; there will be no posthumous trails. This means that even though Pol Pot was the Prime Minister of the Democratic Kampuchea, since he died in 1998, he can not be tried by this court.

The court is unique. It is a hybrid international and national court functioning under a civil law system. This means that the lawyers, judges, and staff are a mix of Cambodians and internationals, and that proceedings are conducted in Khmer, French, and English with use of simultaneous translation. Because the crimes the defendants are being tried for were committed in the 1970s, the court also interprets both Cambodian and International law as it existed during that period.

The ECCC has handled four cases, against eight named accused, and has completed one case. Case 001 tried Kaing Guek Eav, known as Duch, the former Chairman of Phnom Penh's security prison, which is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Duch was convicted of crimes against humanity and grave breeches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949, and sentenced to life in prison in 2012.

Case 002 was originally accused four Khmer Rouge leaders of “crimes against against humanity, grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949, and genocide against the Muslim Cham and Vietnamese”2: Noun Chea, former Chairman of the Democratic Kampuchea National Assembly and Deputy Secretary of the Communist Party of Kampuchea, Khieu Samphan, former Head of State of Democratic Kampuchea, Ieng Sary, former Deputy Prime Minister for Foreign Affairs of Democratic Kampuchea, and Ieng Thirith, former Minister of Social Affairs of Democratic Kampuchea. However, the proceedings against Ieng Sary were terminated in 2013 after his death in March, and Ieng Thirith was found unfit to stand trial due to dementia in 2011. Ieng Thirith died this past August. Because of the breadth of this case, it was split into two trails, Case 002/01 and Case 002/2.
Prison cells at Tuol Sleng.

Case 002/01, against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan, “primarily focus on the forced movement of the population of Phnom Penh and later from other regions…, and related crimes against humanity as well as the alleged execution of at least 250 former Khmer Republic soldiers.”3 The accused were found guilty of crimes against humanity and were sentenced to life in prison. Both accused have filed appeals, the decision for the appeals is expected in 2016.

The proceedings I witnessed were part of Case 002/02 against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan. They are currently standing trial for “allegations of genocide against the Muslim Cham and the Vietnamese, grave breaches of the 1949 Geneva Conventions, forced marriages and rape, purges, persecution of Buddhist, as well as other crimes against humanity.”4 The testimony I watched was of one of the few survivors of the massacre of the Muslim Cham people. The witness, an elderly gentleman, told the court how the Khmer Rouge soldiers had come into his village, and the subsequent actions they took against the Cham. He told about how they declared that the Cham ethnicity was no more, that they were all Khmer. They banned Muslims from practicing their faith, banned prayers and head coverings, and even forced them to eat pork which is a sin in Islam. He also told the court about how the Cham people were later gathered at the local Watt and massacred. He and his wife hid in the bushes while they listened the screams and cries to Allah of his friends, neighbors, and family as they were murdered by the Khmer Rouge soldiers. He and his wife hid in a near by lake for almost four months. They were later saved from being killed, along with a group of Khmer, by the Vietnamese.

The witness, who is also a civil party in this case, was questioned by civil parties lawyers and lawyers for the prosecution during this session. While this trial began in October 2014 there is still no clear end date.

Mass burial pits at the Killing Fields in Choeung Ek.
The court is still in the investigative process of Cases 003 and 004. In March 2015, Meas Muth, former head of the Navy of Democratic Kampuchea, was charged in Case 003 with “allegations of homicide as a violation of the 1956 Cambodian Penal Code, multiple categories of crimes against humanity and grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949.”5 Im Chaem was charged in Case 004 “with allegations of homicide and multiple categories of crimes against humanity.”6 Ao An is also charged in Case 004, with “premeditated homicide as a violation of the 1956 Cambodian Penal Code and multiple categories of crimes against humanity.”7 Another suspect is currently under investigation, but their name remains confidential and they have yet to be charged. The investigations of these cases are currently only being conducted by the international court as the Cambodian government is officially against the investigation.

As I watched and listened to the court proceedings, the witness described the conditions he and his wife had lived in, in order to survive. The amount of translation needed slowed and complicated the overall process. On several occasions the witness did not seem to understand the question and proceeded to go on tangents, which were interesting and created an in depth picture of what happened, but often didn't answer the presented question from the lawyers. After the trail concluded for the day, with plans for a week of recess, the group I was with from YFP and PIC was taken to talk to some of Public Affairs interns about the court system and process, and even discussed the process with one of the prosecution lawyers, a gentleman from the US.

Visiting the ECCC was a reminder of the complexities of living and working in a post conflict, post genocide, society. I will be interested to see in the years and decades to come, how stories of victims and survivors are presented, along side the stories of those charged and convicted by the court as perpetrators.


1An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
2An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
3An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
4An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
5An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
6An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
7An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia

Thursday, September 3, 2015

1 Year Down, 2 to Go

MCC Cambodia and visitors from the Board
Every time I was asked "how long have you been here?" this summer I always felt like it was a surprise to myself to reply "almost a year." Well officially, it has been one year since I came to Cambodia. A year ago today I said goodbye to my parents at the airport and got on a plane to the other side of the world. I remember being very excited until the plane was flying and it finally hit me that I was going to Cambodia, a country I'd never been to in a part of the world I'd never been too or studied in any significant way for three years. I remember sitting in the plane thinking to myself, "What have I done?"

Well, despite my fears, I'm still here and going strong. The year has had many ups and downs: frustration over language study, being driven insane by my host siblings, ice cream outing with the other Service Workers, sleep overs with the SALTers, lonely evenings in my apartment, parasites, colds, minor moto accidents, cultural misunderstandings, eating strange new things, falling in love with tropical fruits, movie nights with friends, delicious dinners and long talks, unexpected trips, beautiful places, and not so beautiful ones.

Reflecting on this past year, all I can do is smile and look forward to the unknown adventures that the next two years will hold.



Bat Phnom

View from my host family's house

Phnom Penh from the River

Royal Palace

Takeo Province

View from my apartment

Sunset over the Gulf of Thailand in Sihanoukville

Attending a discussion the Women's Rights with WPM

Khmer wedding with MCC Staff

Field visit with WPM

River dolphin watching in Kratie

Horseback riding in Sihanoukville

Airport goodbyes with the 2014-2015 SALTers

Taipei, Taiwan trip

Monks processing in front of the Royal Palace

Monday, July 20, 2015

Cambodia meets Taiwan

Back in senior year of college, when I was fundraising to go to Jordan, my lovely friend Tiffany was fundraising to go to Taiwan. For the past two years, Tiffany has been living, teaching English, and participating in the Church in Taipei. Since I moved to Cambodia last fall, the two of us have been trying to plan a vacation together, but we are both terrible advanced planners. So, we ended up last minute deciding that I needed to go visit her since she is returning to the States at the end of July. So, last month I took my last week of vacation time for the year (don't worry; my year restarts in September) to go hang out with Tiffany in Taipei, Taiwan. This was my first trip to an East Asian country other than Cambodia, I was amazed how developed and different Taiwan was from Cambodia. I had an amazing time running around the city with Tiffany, going on late night adventures, exploring the mountains that border the city, and learning about a new place and culture. I even had the opportunity to meet  and catch up with a classmate from my study abroad in Northern Ireland while I was there. It was a joy and a privilege to get to see a bit of what Tiffany's life has been like for the past two years. While, I am very sad that she is leaving me as the only one of our friend group on this side on the world, I am excited to see what God has in store for her next and in the years to come.


Taipei

Taipei
Trying snake blood, venom, and bile

Eating mango shaved ice

Fuzhoushan Park

View of Taipei 101 from Fuzhoushan Park

Midnight hike in Fuzhoushan Park

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial



Art in the subway

MaoKong Gondola

Taipei 101

Taipei 101
Taipei 101
National Palace Museum
First play in two years!