Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Life in the Tropics

Things they don't tell you about living in the tropics

(or if they do tell you, you don't believe them)

Gulf of Thailand in Sihanoukville
  • You will sweat, 95% of the time. Not nice, lady like perspiration, oh no, full on pouring sweat. Walking down the stairs? Sweat! Riding your bike to the market? Sweat! Sitting in the office? Sweat! And because the air is so humid it won't evaporate off your skin like it's supposed to, so it won't make you any cooler.
  • The sweating will make you want to shower constantly. You will understand why the words for "beautiful" and "clean" are the same in several languages.
  • The 5% of the time when you're not sweating? You will be freezing cold. Not because it's actually cold, oh no, it's only around 75F, if it's even that cold, but because your body will be so confused as to why you are not hot enough to sweat anymore.
  • Ants are everywhere. Mini ants, red ants, normal ants- you name 'em, they're around. Think it's safe to leave an empty mug on the table while you finish reading? By the time you pick up the mug again there will be ants.
  • It will be both humid and dusty. These things seem like they don't go together, but it is true. You will constantly be sweeping the dust off your floor or coughing from the dust when riding on a moto.
  • You will probably want to wear a surgical mask while riding a moto, in order to deal with the
    Rain over the river in Phnom Penh
    previously mentioned dust. They do wonders, even if they make it difficult to breath.
  • You'll see more lizards than you've ever seen before. They will be around, all the time. They'll come into your house, and climb on walls, and just kind of chill. Sometimes they will eat stray grains of rice that are laying around.
  • The aforementioned lizards also make noises, loud ones if they're big enough. The first time I heard one I thought it was a bird, then some one showed me the lizard hanging out on the back of the cabinet and I was shocked.
  • When it rains it pours. Light drizzle is not a thing. You will need to carry a raincoat with you at all times during rainy season, just in case.
  • When it rains it floods the streets. So, even though you are wearing a raincoat you will still be
    Pool in Phnom Penh
    soaked to the bone. Also, you will have to drive through the flooding, which may or may not flood the engine on your moto.
  • Most building have tin roofs, this means that when it's hot it will be especially hot inside. And when it rains, it will be loud enough to make you want to put a pillow over your head to muffle the noise.
  • While there is an abundance of tropical fruits (papya, mango, banana, pineapple, dragon fruit, durren, mango stem, milk fruit...) sometime you will miss the fruits and berries you grew up with. Buying them will cost you an arm and a leg though.
  • While you think tropics equal all around pool season, it will either be so hot that any time spent not swimming will need to be spent in the shade to avoid instant sunburn and sweat, or it will be just chilly enough that you can't fathom going into the water.

Monday, September 21, 2015

Khmer Rouge Trials

The security guard handed me back my purse, and the next guard ushered me into the auditorium. I was handed a pair of headphones and a handset with which to listen to the simultaneous translation. My eyes swept over the room, from the hundreds of empty seats to the glass wall separating us from the courtroom. As I took a seat in the middle of the room, my companions from Youth for Peace (YFP) and Peace Institute of Cambodia (PIC) joined me, with their own headsets. I studied the courtroom before us, it almost felt like stage. On the opposite wall there were the emblems of the United Nations and the Kingdom of Cambodia, framing the official emblem for the Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC). In front of that, facing us, were two rows of seats with computer screens. Facing these, close to the glass wall, were two tables, an elderly man was seated at the one on the left, while the one to the right was empty. There were rows of seats to the left and right, facing towards the center, filled with men and women in suits and robes, some black, some purple. Seated against the wall on the left was a group of men and women, the women in this group all wore hijabs. After a few minutes, everyone in the court room rose, as did everyone in the auditorium with me, while the judges entered the room and took their seats. The head judge reminded us why we were there: to hear a witness for the prosecution for the allegations of genocide against the Muslim Cham people during the Khmer Rouge Regime against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan.
Stupa at the Killing Fields in Choeung Ek.

While the Khmer Rouge Regime, officially known as the Democratic Kampuchea, officially held power from April 17th, 1975 to January 7th, 1979, political and military turmoil in Cambodia has prevented those responsible for the atrocities committed by the regime to be brought to justice. The ECCC was launched as a hybrid national and international tribunal in 2006, after almost ten years of planning and negotiations between the Cambodian government and the United Nations. The courts were established to try "the senior leaders of the Democratic Kampuchea... who are alleged to have planned crimes or given orders to commit crimes, as well as those alleged to be most responsible for committing serious crimes.”1 36 years have passed since the Khmer Rouge was toppled, and many of the former leaders are elderly or have died, thus it was decided that only people who are still alive can be tried; there will be no posthumous trails. This means that even though Pol Pot was the Prime Minister of the Democratic Kampuchea, since he died in 1998, he can not be tried by this court.

The court is unique. It is a hybrid international and national court functioning under a civil law system. This means that the lawyers, judges, and staff are a mix of Cambodians and internationals, and that proceedings are conducted in Khmer, French, and English with use of simultaneous translation. Because the crimes the defendants are being tried for were committed in the 1970s, the court also interprets both Cambodian and International law as it existed during that period.

The ECCC has handled four cases, against eight named accused, and has completed one case. Case 001 tried Kaing Guek Eav, known as Duch, the former Chairman of Phnom Penh's security prison, which is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Duch was convicted of crimes against humanity and grave breeches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949, and sentenced to life in prison in 2012.

Case 002 was originally accused four Khmer Rouge leaders of “crimes against against humanity, grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949, and genocide against the Muslim Cham and Vietnamese”2: Noun Chea, former Chairman of the Democratic Kampuchea National Assembly and Deputy Secretary of the Communist Party of Kampuchea, Khieu Samphan, former Head of State of Democratic Kampuchea, Ieng Sary, former Deputy Prime Minister for Foreign Affairs of Democratic Kampuchea, and Ieng Thirith, former Minister of Social Affairs of Democratic Kampuchea. However, the proceedings against Ieng Sary were terminated in 2013 after his death in March, and Ieng Thirith was found unfit to stand trial due to dementia in 2011. Ieng Thirith died this past August. Because of the breadth of this case, it was split into two trails, Case 002/01 and Case 002/2.
Prison cells at Tuol Sleng.

Case 002/01, against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan, “primarily focus on the forced movement of the population of Phnom Penh and later from other regions…, and related crimes against humanity as well as the alleged execution of at least 250 former Khmer Republic soldiers.”3 The accused were found guilty of crimes against humanity and were sentenced to life in prison. Both accused have filed appeals, the decision for the appeals is expected in 2016.

The proceedings I witnessed were part of Case 002/02 against Noun Chea and Khieu Samphan. They are currently standing trial for “allegations of genocide against the Muslim Cham and the Vietnamese, grave breaches of the 1949 Geneva Conventions, forced marriages and rape, purges, persecution of Buddhist, as well as other crimes against humanity.”4 The testimony I watched was of one of the few survivors of the massacre of the Muslim Cham people. The witness, an elderly gentleman, told the court how the Khmer Rouge soldiers had come into his village, and the subsequent actions they took against the Cham. He told about how they declared that the Cham ethnicity was no more, that they were all Khmer. They banned Muslims from practicing their faith, banned prayers and head coverings, and even forced them to eat pork which is a sin in Islam. He also told the court about how the Cham people were later gathered at the local Watt and massacred. He and his wife hid in the bushes while they listened the screams and cries to Allah of his friends, neighbors, and family as they were murdered by the Khmer Rouge soldiers. He and his wife hid in a near by lake for almost four months. They were later saved from being killed, along with a group of Khmer, by the Vietnamese.

The witness, who is also a civil party in this case, was questioned by civil parties lawyers and lawyers for the prosecution during this session. While this trial began in October 2014 there is still no clear end date.

Mass burial pits at the Killing Fields in Choeung Ek.
The court is still in the investigative process of Cases 003 and 004. In March 2015, Meas Muth, former head of the Navy of Democratic Kampuchea, was charged in Case 003 with “allegations of homicide as a violation of the 1956 Cambodian Penal Code, multiple categories of crimes against humanity and grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions of 1949.”5 Im Chaem was charged in Case 004 “with allegations of homicide and multiple categories of crimes against humanity.”6 Ao An is also charged in Case 004, with “premeditated homicide as a violation of the 1956 Cambodian Penal Code and multiple categories of crimes against humanity.”7 Another suspect is currently under investigation, but their name remains confidential and they have yet to be charged. The investigations of these cases are currently only being conducted by the international court as the Cambodian government is officially against the investigation.

As I watched and listened to the court proceedings, the witness described the conditions he and his wife had lived in, in order to survive. The amount of translation needed slowed and complicated the overall process. On several occasions the witness did not seem to understand the question and proceeded to go on tangents, which were interesting and created an in depth picture of what happened, but often didn't answer the presented question from the lawyers. After the trail concluded for the day, with plans for a week of recess, the group I was with from YFP and PIC was taken to talk to some of Public Affairs interns about the court system and process, and even discussed the process with one of the prosecution lawyers, a gentleman from the US.

Visiting the ECCC was a reminder of the complexities of living and working in a post conflict, post genocide, society. I will be interested to see in the years and decades to come, how stories of victims and survivors are presented, along side the stories of those charged and convicted by the court as perpetrators.


1An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
2An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
3An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
4An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
5An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
6An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia
7An Introduction to The Khmer Rouge Trails 6th Edition, Public Affairs Section, Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia

Thursday, September 3, 2015

1 Year Down, 2 to Go

MCC Cambodia and visitors from the Board
Every time I was asked "how long have you been here?" this summer I always felt like it was a surprise to myself to reply "almost a year." Well officially, it has been one year since I came to Cambodia. A year ago today I said goodbye to my parents at the airport and got on a plane to the other side of the world. I remember being very excited until the plane was flying and it finally hit me that I was going to Cambodia, a country I'd never been to in a part of the world I'd never been too or studied in any significant way for three years. I remember sitting in the plane thinking to myself, "What have I done?"

Well, despite my fears, I'm still here and going strong. The year has had many ups and downs: frustration over language study, being driven insane by my host siblings, ice cream outing with the other Service Workers, sleep overs with the SALTers, lonely evenings in my apartment, parasites, colds, minor moto accidents, cultural misunderstandings, eating strange new things, falling in love with tropical fruits, movie nights with friends, delicious dinners and long talks, unexpected trips, beautiful places, and not so beautiful ones.

Reflecting on this past year, all I can do is smile and look forward to the unknown adventures that the next two years will hold.



Bat Phnom

View from my host family's house

Phnom Penh from the River

Royal Palace

Takeo Province

View from my apartment

Sunset over the Gulf of Thailand in Sihanoukville

Attending a discussion the Women's Rights with WPM

Khmer wedding with MCC Staff

Field visit with WPM

River dolphin watching in Kratie

Horseback riding in Sihanoukville

Airport goodbyes with the 2014-2015 SALTers

Taipei, Taiwan trip

Monks processing in front of the Royal Palace